Evelyn Risner May 2009
I came upon MondoChallenge while trawling the internet – there seemed to be thousands of ‘Gap Year’ organisations catering for 18-20 year olds but very few who risked ‘taking on’ an older age group. Since then I have wondered why – where I work, for example, at least 5 people have said they’d like to volunteer abroad for a shorter period and they are all over 45.
MondoChallenge was clearly not an organisation only interested in profit as many of the others appeared to be. MondoChallenge seemed to be smaller and more ‘personal’ – I spoke to MondoChallenge workers many times on the phone and they had the time to answer questions and explain procedures etc.
I had no real expectations of Tanzania before I came – I wanted to visit Africa and I did not want to be a tourist – to combine this with trying to do something useful (voluntary work) and live in a family seemed ideal. I’m sure I wasn’t prepared for the poverty of Tanzania and at first it was all a shock and quite overwhelming.
I started teaching English at a Remand Centre in the morning and a Vocational College in the afternoon. Numbers at the Remand Centre varied between 2-6, they were all boys. One boy was blind and had been brought there by the police because his father (his mother was dead) had left him at Arusha bus station. I was struck by how keen they were to learn English – two of them in particular really seemed to improve during my month there. One of these had wanted to go to Secondary School but his grandparents (his parents were dead) couldn’t afford the £75 it cost per year. Impossible not to compare this with the situation in the UK where education up to 18 is free but not valued by that minority who drop out or mess around for years and leave with nothing – sometimes unable to read or write properly.
In the afternoon I taught English to a group of students who were studying ‘hotel management’ – numbers varied between 4-7. These students were older and obviously not disadvantaged like those in the Remand Centre. They were very keen to practice conversational English and we also covered employability skills e.g. writing a CV and a covering letter and doing mock interviews and role plays. They became more confident speakers of English during the 4 weeks which was very important because they were all looking for jobs in hotels – receptionist, or chef, or porter or cashier. I had not realised the extent to which Arusha’s economy depended on the safari business and how the world recession was affecting tourist numbers, which, in turn meant a lack of money going into hotels, safari companies, national parks etc.
I stayed with a local family in Kijenge Juu – they were very hospitable and would not allow me to do any washing, cooking, cleaning, tidying up – which was fantastic – going home and having to do all these mundane chores again will be a real shock.
I quickly realised that the poverty and lack of opportunity in Tanzania causes people to view the West as somewhere where the streets are ‘paved with gold’. There is the assumption understandably that because you are from Europe or the US you have piles of money to spare and you are able to arrange opportunities for those who want to leave Tanzania to study or work.
I must confess there were times when I felt somewhat under pressure to come up with money or send back certain items from the UK. Why wasn’t I agreeing to sort out a student visa or loan money so that a business could be started up? It was never as blatant as this but occasionally I felt a bit ‘used’. However the open friendliness of everyone and their gentle courtesy helped me to ‘rise above’ these bouts of cynicism.
During the month I have been in Tanzania I have visited Manyara, Ngorongoro and Tarangire National Parks – Ngorongoro Crater, I thought was amazing. I realised I was scared of elephants – especially if they were standing facing you and flapping their ears. I also went to Longido and visited a Masai Boma – saw the ‘toothbrush’ tree and the plants that the Masai use to cure pneumonia and stomach problems. The poverty of the Masai Boma shocked me, although it was very interesting to learn about how they survive in the bush – especially when their sources of water have dried up along with the grazing for their cattle.
By the time I leave I will have been in Tanzania just over 4 weeks – in many ways it seems longer. I hope I have gained some insight into Tanzanian culture. I have certainly been able to observe ‘life on the streets’ which is fascinating (a lot more interesting than UK streets if slightly intimidating for the lone “mzungu” wandering around). I feel positive about my teaching experiences and hope others can build on the progress students have made at both the Remand Centre and the Eureka Institute.
I can’t finish without mentioning the support I have received from the MondoChallenge team in Arusha – Kate and Leonard. They were always ‘on call’ to answer any queries and happy to accompany me on what must have seemed like pathetic “missions” – i.e. when I couldn’t find my way to places that were just round the corner. I think without their reassuring support and the support of my homestay family I would have found Tanzania even more of a ‘MondoChallenge’ than I did.
Tanzanians have many lessons they can teach the West – even though, sadly, they seem to be convinced that they and their country have little to offer.
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Monday, June 15, 2009
Msaranga Business Project - Moshi
Karen Hoeller March - June 2009
Today is my last day in Tanzania, I am leaving for Nairobi tomorrow morning from where I will catch a plane back to Europe. I have been living in Moshi for the past three months where I was working on two business projects. I helped a group of fifty local artists (painters and wood carvers) to increase their sales by trying to get more visitors to come to their shops, and provided assistance with some marketing and advertising (www.kiliweb.com/tingatinga). My friends from Germany and the UK donated 1,000,000 Tsh and with this generous contribution we were able to replace four bridges to the site, set up some signs, advertise in a local map, put flyers out in restaurants and hotels and invite local tour operators to take their clients there. Secondly, I assisted with the roll out of a so-called Small Business Grant Project in Msaranga (a suburb of Moshi) where 11 HIV+ women were selected and given a grant in form of goods (worth approx. £50 each). This was done with the support of my homestay mother Glory who is also a MondoChallenge Community Volunteer Co-ordinator and a local Community Volunteer. Since Msaranga is a rural area I found myself at a pig farm just before Easter buying 6 piglets for 3 of these ladies who were rather excited about the prospect of starting a pig breeding business. We also bought ducks, goats, a sewing machine and 2nd hand t-shirts.I very much enjoyed being so involved in these projects and get real hands-on experience. It was very insightful to get to know some Tanzanians, see how they live and get by on almost nothing yet still be so happy and positive. My last day of volunteering (1st June) was just amazing and made the whole experience even more special. On that day I had planned a handover meeting with my artists, the so-called ‘exit interview’ with Kate, our fantastic TZ Country Manager, and then had been invited once again by my business grant ladies for a final farewell (although I had already said good-bye the previous week).At the arts centre I presented my activity report, summarised what we had achieved together and then presented them with ‘my’ gift of 235,300 Tsh (£120) with which they can now buy some new wood carving tools and paint. This money was left over from the generous contributions and several wood finishers had mentioned that they could do a better job if they had the right tools. So I hope this is going to be useful to all of them. In return I received several small presents and a proper ‘Certificate of Appreciation’ which was really sweet and thoughtful. Glory is going to do some business training there in the next few weeks and then it waits to be seen what the artists are actually doing themselves to take the business forward. I sincerely hope they don’t disappoint me.When Glory and I arrived for the meeting with the ladies in the afternoon, I didn’t see any of them waiting outside but when we entered the room, they were already all there. It turned out later that they had arranged to meet for 2pm and anyone who knows about ‘African time’ will appreciate the thoughtfulness behind it because the ladies just wanted to make sure that everyone would be there by 3.30pm, the time I had been invited for. After a short prayer Vumilia, the tailor, got up and made a short speech on behalf of the group thanking MondoChallenge once again for the grants they had received and the business support along the way. The women are all very grateful that the money had been given directly to them in form of grants and that no other organisations or middlemen had been involved. Then they got out a present for me. Vumilia said that I (ie. MondoChallenge) had given the ones ‘living with hope’ (HIV) a shelter and that they – although they didn’t have much do give in return - would now shelter me. The women then started singing this beautiful African song while taking me into their middle dancing around me and slowly unwrapping the present. In it was a beautiful piece of batik material which they then wrapped around me. Giving a piece of fabric is a very symbolic gesture here in Africa, as it is used in many ways, eg. to protect the body from the sun or rain, carry a child in it tied on to the back and so on. I was so moved and overwhelmed by this kind, loving gesture and their appreciation, I just started crying. My God, it was one of the most beautiful things that has ever been done for me. For us £50 is an evening out having dinner and drinks in a restaurant, for all of these women it is a new start. They are all just so proud and thankful that they are now running their own little businesses and have the support from someone who believes in them. This gives them the chance to relax a little, to look after their children better, feed them properly, sometimes even pay the school fees and for the women themselves to stay relatively healthy for a long time.During my stay here I had many frustrating moments and have overall become a lot more critical of ‘third-world-help’ but in my opinion this programme provides the kind of help which seems useful. It is supported by local community volunteers and due to the continued support most businesses prosper and become sustainable over a long period of time. I therefore feel that my time here has not been in vain and that makes me very happy.
Today is my last day in Tanzania, I am leaving for Nairobi tomorrow morning from where I will catch a plane back to Europe. I have been living in Moshi for the past three months where I was working on two business projects. I helped a group of fifty local artists (painters and wood carvers) to increase their sales by trying to get more visitors to come to their shops, and provided assistance with some marketing and advertising (www.kiliweb.com/tingatinga). My friends from Germany and the UK donated 1,000,000 Tsh and with this generous contribution we were able to replace four bridges to the site, set up some signs, advertise in a local map, put flyers out in restaurants and hotels and invite local tour operators to take their clients there. Secondly, I assisted with the roll out of a so-called Small Business Grant Project in Msaranga (a suburb of Moshi) where 11 HIV+ women were selected and given a grant in form of goods (worth approx. £50 each). This was done with the support of my homestay mother Glory who is also a MondoChallenge Community Volunteer Co-ordinator and a local Community Volunteer. Since Msaranga is a rural area I found myself at a pig farm just before Easter buying 6 piglets for 3 of these ladies who were rather excited about the prospect of starting a pig breeding business. We also bought ducks, goats, a sewing machine and 2nd hand t-shirts.I very much enjoyed being so involved in these projects and get real hands-on experience. It was very insightful to get to know some Tanzanians, see how they live and get by on almost nothing yet still be so happy and positive. My last day of volunteering (1st June) was just amazing and made the whole experience even more special. On that day I had planned a handover meeting with my artists, the so-called ‘exit interview’ with Kate, our fantastic TZ Country Manager, and then had been invited once again by my business grant ladies for a final farewell (although I had already said good-bye the previous week).At the arts centre I presented my activity report, summarised what we had achieved together and then presented them with ‘my’ gift of 235,300 Tsh (£120) with which they can now buy some new wood carving tools and paint. This money was left over from the generous contributions and several wood finishers had mentioned that they could do a better job if they had the right tools. So I hope this is going to be useful to all of them. In return I received several small presents and a proper ‘Certificate of Appreciation’ which was really sweet and thoughtful. Glory is going to do some business training there in the next few weeks and then it waits to be seen what the artists are actually doing themselves to take the business forward. I sincerely hope they don’t disappoint me.When Glory and I arrived for the meeting with the ladies in the afternoon, I didn’t see any of them waiting outside but when we entered the room, they were already all there. It turned out later that they had arranged to meet for 2pm and anyone who knows about ‘African time’ will appreciate the thoughtfulness behind it because the ladies just wanted to make sure that everyone would be there by 3.30pm, the time I had been invited for. After a short prayer Vumilia, the tailor, got up and made a short speech on behalf of the group thanking MondoChallenge once again for the grants they had received and the business support along the way. The women are all very grateful that the money had been given directly to them in form of grants and that no other organisations or middlemen had been involved. Then they got out a present for me. Vumilia said that I (ie. MondoChallenge) had given the ones ‘living with hope’ (HIV) a shelter and that they – although they didn’t have much do give in return - would now shelter me. The women then started singing this beautiful African song while taking me into their middle dancing around me and slowly unwrapping the present. In it was a beautiful piece of batik material which they then wrapped around me. Giving a piece of fabric is a very symbolic gesture here in Africa, as it is used in many ways, eg. to protect the body from the sun or rain, carry a child in it tied on to the back and so on. I was so moved and overwhelmed by this kind, loving gesture and their appreciation, I just started crying. My God, it was one of the most beautiful things that has ever been done for me. For us £50 is an evening out having dinner and drinks in a restaurant, for all of these women it is a new start. They are all just so proud and thankful that they are now running their own little businesses and have the support from someone who believes in them. This gives them the chance to relax a little, to look after their children better, feed them properly, sometimes even pay the school fees and for the women themselves to stay relatively healthy for a long time.During my stay here I had many frustrating moments and have overall become a lot more critical of ‘third-world-help’ but in my opinion this programme provides the kind of help which seems useful. It is supported by local community volunteers and due to the continued support most businesses prosper and become sustainable over a long period of time. I therefore feel that my time here has not been in vain and that makes me very happy.
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