Emily Reid October 2008 - March 2009
Yesterday it rained and rained and I think it is a measure of how long I have been here that I stood on the porch in wonder and excitement, welcoming the much needed downpour. And today at school some of the teachers say to me that I must feel at home in the cold (it was slightly misty and cloudy). I concur politely, although in reality firstly, it is not very cold and secondly, I feel very at home here already. Admittedly I felt apprehensive about returning to Longido for the start of the new academic year after a fantastic six week break spent travelling. But when Philippa and I got off in Longido (very much the worse for wear as a result of dusty and lengthy journey along a diversion from the main road as a result of road widening) someone ran up to me straight away to greet me with 'Teacher, teacher' and from then onwards, as we lumber back up the very sandy, dusty hill, children call ‘Philippa’ and 'Emile' (as they can't say my name very well) and run to hold my hand. Despite the fact that Philippa has gone home now, some children are still shouting Philippa, apparently thinking it must be a generic term for a mzungu.
Now, after a couple of weeks, it feels very good to be in Longido again: I was welcomed back to school with beaming smiles from the children, along with the inevitable shouts of ‘Emile’. The new standard four burst into song as I come into the classroom with one of the songs I taught them last year and grin so hard that it looks like their faces will break. It is good to see the teachers as well and very satisfying when one of the teachers says that she is learning so much from me about helping the children to enjoy the lessons and using pictures and props, rather than making them copy from the board. It may not sound like much, but in an educational system dominated by chalk and talk, I feel this is some achievement. With seventy to eighty children in a class it is still impossible to reach all the children and some of them are drowning silently at the back; generally it seems that as long as these stragglers sit quietly, they are left to flounder. This is a particular problem in Longido because it is a Masai village with a large number of the children attempting to learn English as a third language.. In an effort to help a bit I have set up an extra class to help some of the weaker students in standard four at lunch time and although I’m not sure how much learning is going on, those children are relishing the attention, which in a class of so many, they are routinely deprived of.
Thanks to donations from Phillipa’s and my friends and family, we raised enough money towards paint for the dormitories we painted before Christmas, that we also had enough money to replace some of the urine soaked, insect infected mattresses as well. The whole story of purchasing them was a bit of an adventure as we found that the price was cheaper in Namanga (on the Kenyan border) than in Arusha. So armed with the deputy head of the school, we set out last Wednesday to Namanga, which is only about half an hour away from Longido. It was only once there that we realized that the cheapest mattresses we had been told about were over the border in Kenya and that things were not quite as simple as we had anticipated. Any driver we asked said that we needed a document to say that we had paid the correct tax and that we had acquired them legally. Anyway the deputy head went off to speak to customs (for about two hours) while we waited. (As an aside, Philippa mentioned later how impressed she was that I, Emily the rude and impatient, waited so patiently for Mr Mangara to come back. I don’t think I have ever been the most patient person but in the light of this am hopeful that I can go back home a new, patient me.) So two hours later Mr Mangara came back with bad news: He said we were not able to take anything like the number of mattresses we wanted without letters from the district education officer to declare that the mattresses were for a school and various other things we didn't have. At this stage we were very depressed and felt that we had nothing to loose by going and speaking to the customs officials ourselves.
The next hour or two was spent in customs learning about the law on importing goods between Kenya and Tanzania. The official basically said that there was nothing he could do and that we would either have to pay a huge amount of tax or get a letter from the DEO, which would then have to be sent to Dar and could take up to three months. But, just as we had given up hope, he pulled some magnanimity out from somewhere and decided there was something he could do after all: He did declare the mattresses we were bringing in but reduced their value and quantity so that the tax we had to pay was much more reasonable. And so, finally, we crossed the border again with a dala-dala (small, battered mini bus) and purchased forty mattresses (we would only have been able to buy thirty in Arusha because they were so much more expensive). Hurray! Then came the most challenging part of the day, which was squeezing 40 mattresses into a dala-dala. Eventually we managed though and I journeyed back to Longido sandwiched securely in the midst of our new, brightly coloured mattresses but feeling on top of the world. This feeling was reinforced when we arrived at school with the mattresses to a swarm of children who eagerly carried them inside with a chorus of ‘thank you, thank you’. The combination of the paint and the new mattresses has utterly transformed those dormitories; they look like normal children's rooms now and the little people do seem very happy with them, not least, I hope, because they feel valued. On behalf of all those children I just want to say a big thank you to everyone who donated the money which enabled us to achieve this.
I have only two months left in Longido now and time has started to go a little too quickly; I feel like I’m on a treadmill but not in control of the speed and going much faster than I would like to. As you can probably tell, I’m very much looking forward to the rest of me time here; it’s been great.
Monday, March 9, 2009
Monday, February 2, 2009
Hope Training - Ngaramtoni
Sally Dec 08 - Feb 09
Not quite sure why I chose Tanzania. I had up until recently planned to climb Kilimanjaro, but due to some kind of spinal injury which lasted 3 years until this year, I had to put it on hold. I still was stupid enough to pack climbing gear, which I keep moving around in my case to fit in other things. I just haven’t had enough high things to walk up and get fit on, so wander each evening to gaze at Mt Meru when the clouds move away, and it glows pink in the setting sun.
Tanzania is a very poor country, filled with seemingly thousands of organisations and individuals, of every size, shape and agenda, trying to help, build, cure, teach etc.
I am working in the banana plantations, a twenty-minute walk from Ngaramtoni, a squalid township half an hour drive in a packed-full tin box on wheels from Arusha.
Sometimes I help with the bananas but my main task is to train teaching methods in Health Education and HIV prevention to six community volunteers who with a bit of luck may be ready to teach this to all the local teachers.
I live with a local family near to the office and near to the villages which I am involved in. I have a lovely bedroom and we have lovely meals, which for me are vegetarian. Between 6pm and 7pm I receive a bucket of hot water for my bath, which I always need as I am always dirty…covered in dust on the dry days, and mud on the wet days (from head to toe). Toilets in Tanzania are places you go to die, or suffer from constipation, as they are mostly not fit for anything else, though, how lizards manage to live in them I don’t know.
It’s very friendly up here with everyone stopping to talk and shake hands, and test me in all the Swahili and Maasai greetings they have in their languages. Do NOT take out a camera though or you could be beaten with a 6 foot 6 Maasai warrior’s stick. They don’t understand if you want to take a picture on market day they are quite welcome to stand aside so as not to be in the picture. I’ve taken to drawing them in my sketchbook instead as 10,000 Tsh a picture is a bit expensive. Many shopkeepers in Ngaramtoni are lovely people, doing a good job in terribly difficult conditions. I would love to take some home with me a swap them for some of our miserable, unhelpful youngsters at home.
In the region I am working there is plenty of food available, and people have a better diet than most in the UK. It’s all freshly picked, freshly cooked and freshly eaten. No junk. I am told other areas are not so fortunate. I do spend a lot of time trying to figure out why there is so much poverty. There are just so many children, even the poorest have huge families and I believe a tour company in Arusha take tourists to visit a Maasai with 97 children. Isn’t that a great idea to encourage breeding!
I am then told it’s education the country needs, correctly so, but every time a new school is built, it is immediately filled with hundreds more children, and not enough teachers to go round. So if they keep building schools how can it solve the reproduction problem within the next 100-2000 years? How much sorrow, starvation, illness, early deaths will have to happen? I must stop worrying about what to do, as I am not getting anywhere.
Having worked previously in some of the poorest places on earth, I do find it difficult here.
There’s a bar down in Ngaramtoni, called The B.M.W. It’s quite out of character for the town, as it’s clean, with little tables, place to wash your hands with clean water, and a relaxing place to sit on the veranda and watch the world (Ngaramtoni) go by. I’ll just go now and have a glass of Kilimanjaro beer, and imagine I’m reaching the last 5,000 metres.
From Sally, retired Health Visitor, from England, working for 2 months as a Trainer, training trainers to train!
Not quite sure why I chose Tanzania. I had up until recently planned to climb Kilimanjaro, but due to some kind of spinal injury which lasted 3 years until this year, I had to put it on hold. I still was stupid enough to pack climbing gear, which I keep moving around in my case to fit in other things. I just haven’t had enough high things to walk up and get fit on, so wander each evening to gaze at Mt Meru when the clouds move away, and it glows pink in the setting sun.
Tanzania is a very poor country, filled with seemingly thousands of organisations and individuals, of every size, shape and agenda, trying to help, build, cure, teach etc.
I am working in the banana plantations, a twenty-minute walk from Ngaramtoni, a squalid township half an hour drive in a packed-full tin box on wheels from Arusha.
Sometimes I help with the bananas but my main task is to train teaching methods in Health Education and HIV prevention to six community volunteers who with a bit of luck may be ready to teach this to all the local teachers.
I live with a local family near to the office and near to the villages which I am involved in. I have a lovely bedroom and we have lovely meals, which for me are vegetarian. Between 6pm and 7pm I receive a bucket of hot water for my bath, which I always need as I am always dirty…covered in dust on the dry days, and mud on the wet days (from head to toe). Toilets in Tanzania are places you go to die, or suffer from constipation, as they are mostly not fit for anything else, though, how lizards manage to live in them I don’t know.
It’s very friendly up here with everyone stopping to talk and shake hands, and test me in all the Swahili and Maasai greetings they have in their languages. Do NOT take out a camera though or you could be beaten with a 6 foot 6 Maasai warrior’s stick. They don’t understand if you want to take a picture on market day they are quite welcome to stand aside so as not to be in the picture. I’ve taken to drawing them in my sketchbook instead as 10,000 Tsh a picture is a bit expensive. Many shopkeepers in Ngaramtoni are lovely people, doing a good job in terribly difficult conditions. I would love to take some home with me a swap them for some of our miserable, unhelpful youngsters at home.
In the region I am working there is plenty of food available, and people have a better diet than most in the UK. It’s all freshly picked, freshly cooked and freshly eaten. No junk. I am told other areas are not so fortunate. I do spend a lot of time trying to figure out why there is so much poverty. There are just so many children, even the poorest have huge families and I believe a tour company in Arusha take tourists to visit a Maasai with 97 children. Isn’t that a great idea to encourage breeding!
I am then told it’s education the country needs, correctly so, but every time a new school is built, it is immediately filled with hundreds more children, and not enough teachers to go round. So if they keep building schools how can it solve the reproduction problem within the next 100-2000 years? How much sorrow, starvation, illness, early deaths will have to happen? I must stop worrying about what to do, as I am not getting anywhere.
Having worked previously in some of the poorest places on earth, I do find it difficult here.
There’s a bar down in Ngaramtoni, called The B.M.W. It’s quite out of character for the town, as it’s clean, with little tables, place to wash your hands with clean water, and a relaxing place to sit on the veranda and watch the world (Ngaramtoni) go by. I’ll just go now and have a glass of Kilimanjaro beer, and imagine I’m reaching the last 5,000 metres.
From Sally, retired Health Visitor, from England, working for 2 months as a Trainer, training trainers to train!
Thursday, November 20, 2008
Hope English Medium Nursery - Ngaramtoni
Bec Bellinger & Lisa Lane - Oct to Nov 2008
Lisa and I have been living with the Kinisi family in Ngaramtoni for almost 5 weeks. The family is lovely and they have all made us feel very welcome and ‘at home’. We are certainly not looking forward to saying goodbye later this week!
We have both been working at Hope Nursery, which is made up of around 40 children (new ones seem to appear on a weekly basis), 2 teachers, 1 Director and 2 local volunteers. The children are aged between 2 and 8, and since our arrival have been divided into 3 classes (primarily based on age). Hope is an English school, which means all classes are to be taught in English. This is quite a challenge because the childrens’ ability to speak/understand English varies greatly. The school has few supplies or resources and this has made it also quite challenging. Before we came to Tanzania we did some fundraising, which had meant that we can help hope with some of these things. Since arriving we have managed to buy a blackboard (originally there was one being shared), a number of books, paper, crayons etc. and later this week we are expecting the arrival of new desks and chairs for the 3 classrooms. Up until now the children have sat on benches and they move to the floor and use the bench as a desk. The school is planning on getting electricity in January, so we have left some money with Mondo to purchaser a TV and DVD player and we will send some educational English programmes over.
The children at Hope are absolutely adorable and it has made our day seeing their eyes light up with excitement when we teach them a new book, song or game.
Despite the various frustrations we’ve had along the way, it has been an enjoyable and rewarding experience. Our only disappointment is having only 5 weeks with all these amazing people. We wish all the current and future Mondo volunteers all the best with their projects and we look forward to hearing all the success stories!
Lisa and I have been living with the Kinisi family in Ngaramtoni for almost 5 weeks. The family is lovely and they have all made us feel very welcome and ‘at home’. We are certainly not looking forward to saying goodbye later this week!
We have both been working at Hope Nursery, which is made up of around 40 children (new ones seem to appear on a weekly basis), 2 teachers, 1 Director and 2 local volunteers. The children are aged between 2 and 8, and since our arrival have been divided into 3 classes (primarily based on age). Hope is an English school, which means all classes are to be taught in English. This is quite a challenge because the childrens’ ability to speak/understand English varies greatly. The school has few supplies or resources and this has made it also quite challenging. Before we came to Tanzania we did some fundraising, which had meant that we can help hope with some of these things. Since arriving we have managed to buy a blackboard (originally there was one being shared), a number of books, paper, crayons etc. and later this week we are expecting the arrival of new desks and chairs for the 3 classrooms. Up until now the children have sat on benches and they move to the floor and use the bench as a desk. The school is planning on getting electricity in January, so we have left some money with Mondo to purchaser a TV and DVD player and we will send some educational English programmes over.
The children at Hope are absolutely adorable and it has made our day seeing their eyes light up with excitement when we teach them a new book, song or game.
Despite the various frustrations we’ve had along the way, it has been an enjoyable and rewarding experience. Our only disappointment is having only 5 weeks with all these amazing people. We wish all the current and future Mondo volunteers all the best with their projects and we look forward to hearing all the success stories!
Friday, November 14, 2008
AWIB & DINKWA - Arusha
Robert Edwards Sep - Dec 2008
What hit me on arrival in Arusha in Sep. were the colours and vibrancy amidst the obvious struggle for daily existence by so many locals. I soon learnt to deal with the hassle on the streets and to enjoy instead the chats you can have with any and everybody, whilst walking, waiting, eating or riding the dalla-dalla around town.
The dalla-dalla is the minibus that runs around town to the villages, but also for the longer journeys out of town. Fares start at 15p. The conductor jingles his change in front of your face as a sign to pay your fare. No words are exchanged. To get off, you bang the inside bodywork and the conductor repeats this for the driver. No words exchanged either. Seating capacity is about 18, but there are flop down seats which block the gangway and room for another 8 or so standing inside the sliding side door. The aim is to keep the d-d brimful, so if you’re standing expect to duck your head and have it nestling in a fat lady’s arm-pit. As the d-d hits the speed bumps or lurches over yet another pot-hole on the dirt road, you get the full whiff and a banged shin. So getting a seat is bliss.
Don’t think about Health and Safety because, as I said, the gangways are blocked by bodies or buckets of tomatoes etc. The conductor hangs out of the window of the sliding door shouting out the final destination, so hoping to find more passengers en route to be scooped up and crushed in. The driver takes pleasure in carving up every other road user, from donkeys to barrow boys, certainly pedestrians and cyclists.
I work as a micro-business advisor on two business projects in and around Arusha and the dusty villages; on one project I have been given a 406 page tome to plough through so that I become knowledgeable about Early Childhood Development prior to conducting field research about it. My other challenging task has been teaching English to adults, my goal being to stop my students using their deeply ingrained –i endings, as in “I’m justi coming”.
Walking the streets I have felt safe, even though in my village as the only Mzungu (white person) 1,000 eyes follow me, the children calling out “Good Morning, Mzungu”, even late afternoons. I once had qualms as I was surrounded by a group of Maasai men in full tribal regalia wanting me to sniff snuff with them. I was able to decline and, wondering what they wear beneath their loincloths, got the complete answer later from a blast of wind in the street. Mzungu are not allowed to roam outside after the dusk curfew at 6.30pm and I do find this cramps my style.
My homestay is comfortable enough, though taking a bucket shower during one of the many sudden power cuts, knowing that I am sharing with a giant cockroach, is testing.
At first I missed my music stand, but soon learned to prefer the laurel bush to support my music book and practise my harmonica outside, with the mountain view to boot.
When I return home for Christmas, I won’t miss the dust, the interminable waiting and the ubiquitous stench of human sweat. But I will miss, and treasure, those colours, the local friendliness and the much simpler way of living in Tanzania.
What hit me on arrival in Arusha in Sep. were the colours and vibrancy amidst the obvious struggle for daily existence by so many locals. I soon learnt to deal with the hassle on the streets and to enjoy instead the chats you can have with any and everybody, whilst walking, waiting, eating or riding the dalla-dalla around town.
The dalla-dalla is the minibus that runs around town to the villages, but also for the longer journeys out of town. Fares start at 15p. The conductor jingles his change in front of your face as a sign to pay your fare. No words are exchanged. To get off, you bang the inside bodywork and the conductor repeats this for the driver. No words exchanged either. Seating capacity is about 18, but there are flop down seats which block the gangway and room for another 8 or so standing inside the sliding side door. The aim is to keep the d-d brimful, so if you’re standing expect to duck your head and have it nestling in a fat lady’s arm-pit. As the d-d hits the speed bumps or lurches over yet another pot-hole on the dirt road, you get the full whiff and a banged shin. So getting a seat is bliss.
Don’t think about Health and Safety because, as I said, the gangways are blocked by bodies or buckets of tomatoes etc. The conductor hangs out of the window of the sliding door shouting out the final destination, so hoping to find more passengers en route to be scooped up and crushed in. The driver takes pleasure in carving up every other road user, from donkeys to barrow boys, certainly pedestrians and cyclists.
I work as a micro-business advisor on two business projects in and around Arusha and the dusty villages; on one project I have been given a 406 page tome to plough through so that I become knowledgeable about Early Childhood Development prior to conducting field research about it. My other challenging task has been teaching English to adults, my goal being to stop my students using their deeply ingrained –i endings, as in “I’m justi coming”.
Walking the streets I have felt safe, even though in my village as the only Mzungu (white person) 1,000 eyes follow me, the children calling out “Good Morning, Mzungu”, even late afternoons. I once had qualms as I was surrounded by a group of Maasai men in full tribal regalia wanting me to sniff snuff with them. I was able to decline and, wondering what they wear beneath their loincloths, got the complete answer later from a blast of wind in the street. Mzungu are not allowed to roam outside after the dusk curfew at 6.30pm and I do find this cramps my style.
My homestay is comfortable enough, though taking a bucket shower during one of the many sudden power cuts, knowing that I am sharing with a giant cockroach, is testing.
At first I missed my music stand, but soon learned to prefer the laurel bush to support my music book and practise my harmonica outside, with the mountain view to boot.
When I return home for Christmas, I won’t miss the dust, the interminable waiting and the ubiquitous stench of human sweat. But I will miss, and treasure, those colours, the local friendliness and the much simpler way of living in Tanzania.
Monday, October 13, 2008
Timbolo Primary & Hope Kimondo - Ngaramtoni
Sylvia & John Barns - July-August 2008
Made it!
It’s been a week of finishing off and of farewells. Rather late in the day, Sylvia realised that her pupils had learned quite a bit of English from her lessons at Timbolo Primary and that they had enjoyed them too. (There were tears from both teacher and pupils when she left.) Her main hope is that they have actually learned something more important than English from her – something about how teaching can be about enabling learning, that authority can reside in something less tangible and harmful than a stick and that all individuals have value. (Sounds rather pretentious – but where would we be without some idealism?)
The party the school had organised to say goodbye was a very African affair. The Head arranged to meet us to take us to the venue in Ngaramtoni. Despite the fact that he was 30 minutes late at the rendezvous, we three were at the party a good hour before anyone else! Then they all turned up in their finery and looked stunning. Timbolo village dignitaries came too. There were lots of speeches, mostly in Swahili. Five minutes into the Head’s second spot, we thought we looked at least as interested as those who could understand. Sylvia was complemented – ‘although she is old (!), she is always there before school starts.’ Well, that certainly makes getting up everyday at 5:45 worthwhile! They presented her with a Masai blanket – John wants to know, if she’s now Masai, can he have a second wife? Despite our best efforts, it was all rather serious, but we were touched by their wanting to mark the occasion in such a special way.
John’s work concluded (inevitably for an ex Exxon man) with a presentation to the Trustees. He discussed some of his exciting new ideas about the possible future directions of Hope Kimondo Trust – more of that when we return. We then had a ‘part’ to celebrate his leaving. (aside about language – the Tanzanians always pronounce one syllable words ending in ‘t’ with an added ‘ee’ sound – besty, texty books, boaty – but ironically call a do, a ‘part’). The Community Volunteers and Trustees showed warmth and appreciation for John’s hard work and encouragement, which had enabled them to grow in confidence and skill. We were presented with two more Masai blankets and traditional jewellery. You can never have too many Masai blankets, we say.
We want to record our thanks to all those at home who have made this adventure possible for us – those who’ve done practical things to keep our ‘normal life’ back in Blighty ticking over in our absence, caring for house and garden, living in the house, sorting mail, dealing with official business and preventing emergencies. Thanks too to those who have shouldered some of our responsibilities – special mention to Tim who had something of a baptism of fire as Acting Chair of Governors. And we couldn’t have come without Mondo Challenge and a sabbatical for Sylvia from St Mary’s Surgery and Compass.
Finally we want to say how important it has been to us to write and send these newsletters. It has somehow helped us to manage this incredible experience simply to put some of it into words and to feel that someone was interested in how things are for us. A counsellor shouldn’t be at all surprised by this, but to experience the benefits of recounting in this different way has led to a different appreciation of ‘bearing witness’. Thank you. Thank you too for your words of encouragement and support which meant a lot to us.
Big questions loom - about how best to support the developing world, what to make of our experience, what were the gains for Tanzania? There is no doubt whatsoever that there have been gains for us - this has been one of the most significant experiences of our lives. Sometimes at home, life seems to just rush past, but here we feel we have ‘lived’ every moment. Both Timbolo and Hope Trust (our placements) asked us not to forget them when we get home. We were able to say from our hearts that we believed we would always remember our time with them.
We wonder what ‘re-entry’ will be like? It will be wonderful to see you all again – (and to walk on grass and paths not covered in inches of fine dust, to have water literally on tap and easy communications). We’ll return with both of us leaner and one of us fitter – the other was always pretty fit anyway. Walking 25 miles a week with 2,200 ‘feat’ of climb simply to get to and from work, has probably helped. However, hair looks like straw, feels like straw, probably is straw. Skin – well, who knows? E45 and L’Oreal Re-Perfect ‘for very mature skin’ (see comment above) – just not up to the daunting task. And someone should warn the Immodium production line of the imminent slump in sales. Please remind us – it’s the Caribbean cruise next year!
Talking about communications – this is our last newsletter. We’re heading out on Safari and then for some sun, sea and the other thing(s) in Zanzibar and will revert to our usual few postcards sent at the last minute.
Our love and best wishes to you all. Kwaherini. Twende – let’s go!
Made it!
It’s been a week of finishing off and of farewells. Rather late in the day, Sylvia realised that her pupils had learned quite a bit of English from her lessons at Timbolo Primary and that they had enjoyed them too. (There were tears from both teacher and pupils when she left.) Her main hope is that they have actually learned something more important than English from her – something about how teaching can be about enabling learning, that authority can reside in something less tangible and harmful than a stick and that all individuals have value. (Sounds rather pretentious – but where would we be without some idealism?)
The party the school had organised to say goodbye was a very African affair. The Head arranged to meet us to take us to the venue in Ngaramtoni. Despite the fact that he was 30 minutes late at the rendezvous, we three were at the party a good hour before anyone else! Then they all turned up in their finery and looked stunning. Timbolo village dignitaries came too. There were lots of speeches, mostly in Swahili. Five minutes into the Head’s second spot, we thought we looked at least as interested as those who could understand. Sylvia was complemented – ‘although she is old (!), she is always there before school starts.’ Well, that certainly makes getting up everyday at 5:45 worthwhile! They presented her with a Masai blanket – John wants to know, if she’s now Masai, can he have a second wife? Despite our best efforts, it was all rather serious, but we were touched by their wanting to mark the occasion in such a special way.
John’s work concluded (inevitably for an ex Exxon man) with a presentation to the Trustees. He discussed some of his exciting new ideas about the possible future directions of Hope Kimondo Trust – more of that when we return. We then had a ‘part’ to celebrate his leaving. (aside about language – the Tanzanians always pronounce one syllable words ending in ‘t’ with an added ‘ee’ sound – besty, texty books, boaty – but ironically call a do, a ‘part’). The Community Volunteers and Trustees showed warmth and appreciation for John’s hard work and encouragement, which had enabled them to grow in confidence and skill. We were presented with two more Masai blankets and traditional jewellery. You can never have too many Masai blankets, we say.
We want to record our thanks to all those at home who have made this adventure possible for us – those who’ve done practical things to keep our ‘normal life’ back in Blighty ticking over in our absence, caring for house and garden, living in the house, sorting mail, dealing with official business and preventing emergencies. Thanks too to those who have shouldered some of our responsibilities – special mention to Tim who had something of a baptism of fire as Acting Chair of Governors. And we couldn’t have come without Mondo Challenge and a sabbatical for Sylvia from St Mary’s Surgery and Compass.
Finally we want to say how important it has been to us to write and send these newsletters. It has somehow helped us to manage this incredible experience simply to put some of it into words and to feel that someone was interested in how things are for us. A counsellor shouldn’t be at all surprised by this, but to experience the benefits of recounting in this different way has led to a different appreciation of ‘bearing witness’. Thank you. Thank you too for your words of encouragement and support which meant a lot to us.
Big questions loom - about how best to support the developing world, what to make of our experience, what were the gains for Tanzania? There is no doubt whatsoever that there have been gains for us - this has been one of the most significant experiences of our lives. Sometimes at home, life seems to just rush past, but here we feel we have ‘lived’ every moment. Both Timbolo and Hope Trust (our placements) asked us not to forget them when we get home. We were able to say from our hearts that we believed we would always remember our time with them.
We wonder what ‘re-entry’ will be like? It will be wonderful to see you all again – (and to walk on grass and paths not covered in inches of fine dust, to have water literally on tap and easy communications). We’ll return with both of us leaner and one of us fitter – the other was always pretty fit anyway. Walking 25 miles a week with 2,200 ‘feat’ of climb simply to get to and from work, has probably helped. However, hair looks like straw, feels like straw, probably is straw. Skin – well, who knows? E45 and L’Oreal Re-Perfect ‘for very mature skin’ (see comment above) – just not up to the daunting task. And someone should warn the Immodium production line of the imminent slump in sales. Please remind us – it’s the Caribbean cruise next year!
Talking about communications – this is our last newsletter. We’re heading out on Safari and then for some sun, sea and the other thing(s) in Zanzibar and will revert to our usual few postcards sent at the last minute.
Our love and best wishes to you all. Kwaherini. Twende – let’s go!
Monday, September 29, 2008
Hai District Hospital - Small Business Grants
Emma Parfitt Sep - Nov 08
My bubble has burst
I think the thing that did it was the episode of footballers wife's extras that I caught the other night. It was so surreal and such a naff show I don't understand why it was aired but I watched it all the same. It satisfied my appetite for UK TV (and reminded me how rubbish it can be too). The experience grounded me and I am feeling a lot less of an outsider. I am noticing more and more similarities between where I am and where I am coming from. This week Mama Mtey and I started our home visits, altogether we have seen 13 potential grant recipients. We are still to visit at least another 5. The experience was emotional and physically draining, we walked for miles and miles and miles. Often people weren't in as it was market day but we caught up with them eventually. I was shattered by the end of the day and with no sympathy from Mama Mtey. I was informed that now I am living in Africa I have to walk like an African women and so I did. The emotional element was within the stories that the people were telling us. How they came to be ill, who's children they had taken over the care of, how many loved ones they had lost, domestic violence, no ones situation was simple or acceptable. The assessment process for me has become a cross between applying business thinking and social work, separating the two is impossible. Although it has made me realise that a persons needs are the same regardless of which country I am in and whilst back home I never expect to ask someone their health status in relation to a business grant the emotional impact that the money will make is immense. The two factors are intertwined and as important as each other.
When I was researching where to go one my trip and what to do I kept referring back to my previous volunteering experience at the Dreadnought centre. While I was their I had a clear understanding of what was acceptable and unacceptable in relation to each of the children that I spent time with. I understand how a child fits into our social structure and how they should be treated. My main concern with volunteering abroad was that the cultural gap was too wide and that what I believed to be right would be irrational thinking to the people that I would be working with. I have come to realise that this is relevant, poverty is poverty I recognise it when I see it and no one should live within it.
I would never expected an episode of footballers wife's extras to have such an impact and I'm sure it never will again! Unfortunately the episode was a one off and instead my TV viewing has moved on to a Spanish show dubbed into English. The plot is so complicated and ridiculous that I don't have a clue what is going on. I do that there is a long lost son, a magical medallion, a rich girl with a job in a burger bar to prove her independence and there was a plane crash! I'll let you know how it all ends.
My bubble has burst
I think the thing that did it was the episode of footballers wife's extras that I caught the other night. It was so surreal and such a naff show I don't understand why it was aired but I watched it all the same. It satisfied my appetite for UK TV (and reminded me how rubbish it can be too). The experience grounded me and I am feeling a lot less of an outsider. I am noticing more and more similarities between where I am and where I am coming from. This week Mama Mtey and I started our home visits, altogether we have seen 13 potential grant recipients. We are still to visit at least another 5. The experience was emotional and physically draining, we walked for miles and miles and miles. Often people weren't in as it was market day but we caught up with them eventually. I was shattered by the end of the day and with no sympathy from Mama Mtey. I was informed that now I am living in Africa I have to walk like an African women and so I did. The emotional element was within the stories that the people were telling us. How they came to be ill, who's children they had taken over the care of, how many loved ones they had lost, domestic violence, no ones situation was simple or acceptable. The assessment process for me has become a cross between applying business thinking and social work, separating the two is impossible. Although it has made me realise that a persons needs are the same regardless of which country I am in and whilst back home I never expect to ask someone their health status in relation to a business grant the emotional impact that the money will make is immense. The two factors are intertwined and as important as each other.
When I was researching where to go one my trip and what to do I kept referring back to my previous volunteering experience at the Dreadnought centre. While I was their I had a clear understanding of what was acceptable and unacceptable in relation to each of the children that I spent time with. I understand how a child fits into our social structure and how they should be treated. My main concern with volunteering abroad was that the cultural gap was too wide and that what I believed to be right would be irrational thinking to the people that I would be working with. I have come to realise that this is relevant, poverty is poverty I recognise it when I see it and no one should live within it.
I would never expected an episode of footballers wife's extras to have such an impact and I'm sure it never will again! Unfortunately the episode was a one off and instead my TV viewing has moved on to a Spanish show dubbed into English. The plot is so complicated and ridiculous that I don't have a clue what is going on. I do that there is a long lost son, a magical medallion, a rich girl with a job in a burger bar to prove her independence and there was a plane crash! I'll let you know how it all ends.
Wednesday, August 20, 2008
Hope Kimondo & Timbolo Primary - Ngaramtoni
John & Sylvia Barns July - August 2008
We had a lovely weekend in Marangu but as predicted, internet access was worse than useless. We struggled at the internet café here in Ngaramtoni during the week but weren’t able to make contact. The result is a double dose of newsletter this week.
However being cut off and out of busy Arusha did mean a peaceful weekend for us. Friday was a bank holiday so we were able to manage the hazardous public transport and still get to the hotel for a late lunch. It was warm and sunny so we made good use of the gardens. From our room we had a stunning view of Kilimanjaro and amazingly the sky was clear enough for us to see the snow on top both early in the morning and in the evening. We understand the top is rarely visible so we were very lucky.
The hotel was somewhat in a time warp (makes the Isle of Wight look positively at the cutting edge) but was friendly and comfortable. We were somewhat overwhelmed by the many international groups of young people noisily celebrating and triumphant after their climb. It really is a feat – on the last day of the ascent you set off soon after midnight in order to be able to make it to the top and back down to the highest camp before dark. The whole thing takes at least a week and is not cheap either. We resisted the temptation to change all our plans and to join in (a temptation more easily resisted by one of us than the other) but did go on a wonderfully informative walk with a local guide though his village and the plantations. We heard lots about the making of banana beer but unfortunately(?) weren’t offered a tasting. We did however buy some freshly picked coffee beans which were roasted especially for us. We have a small stash of emergency supplies (bananas, Snickers bars, tomatoes) in one of our suitcases all of which now have a hint of coffee about them but the aroma is fantastic. The guide took us to a dramatic waterfall where we shared a packed lunch. It was a very steep climb down into the gorge and an even steeper climb back up!
Back in Ngaramtoni Sylvia at last feels that her teaching might be getting somewhere. It’s still hard to persuade pupils that language is flexible – they are used to being given the one correct answer on the board and to copying it down without processing it. Offering choices and being determined that they learn something has taken them out of their comfort zone. However they seemed to love making postcards for display – displays of pupils’ work being unheard of. Next challenge is to string them up – postcards, not pupils – persistent dust means fixing anything to the walls is impossible.
John continues to visit grant recipients and to be given chai (very milky, very sweet tea) as an honoured guest. An early must-have for all Masai households appears to be a thermos flask from which the chai is dispensed at the end of a business review. The small businesses themselves are enjoying varying degrees of success and it’s sometimes hard to know how to help and disappointing that there are so few options available.
While on the subject of tea, John is reminded that his physics teacher, when explaining the effect of pressure on boiling points, claimed it was impossible to make a good cup of tea on top of Mount Everest as the water boils at less than 100C. (Note from Sylvia – don’t anyone dare suggest that John should test this out for himself!) At 5000 feet as we are, the tea seems fine but we notice (well John does) that automatic kettles don’t switch off, presumably because the steam temperature is too low but maybe the frequent power cuts don’t help. Perhaps teachers do know something after all!
We’re moving towards our final week of volunteering. Food remains a dominant concern. Mama Rose’ cuisine has taken on an international flavour following the visit of an American anthropologist who taught her how to make pizza. We now have ‘Italian night’ one a week – last week thick crust pizza with a little tomato sauce and cheese topping with spaghetti – plain, no sauce! This week we had the same pizza but with mashed potatoes! I do believe, however, she makes the best yoghurt in the world, we get a few spoonfuls at breakfast made from the milk from the cow in the stall next to the ‘shower’ -10 metres from udder to mouth! Not many food miles there!
We know we will make it to the end now. We’re aware we have a tremendous lot of processing of the experience to do – that will take some time. For now we are touched that the school have arranged a farewell party for Wednesday and John’s team another one for Friday. Immediate problem is how best to dispose of assets we don’t expect to need on safari. Anyone want to bid for a plastic bucket with lid? More about that (possibly) when we get home!
We had a lovely weekend in Marangu but as predicted, internet access was worse than useless. We struggled at the internet café here in Ngaramtoni during the week but weren’t able to make contact. The result is a double dose of newsletter this week.
However being cut off and out of busy Arusha did mean a peaceful weekend for us. Friday was a bank holiday so we were able to manage the hazardous public transport and still get to the hotel for a late lunch. It was warm and sunny so we made good use of the gardens. From our room we had a stunning view of Kilimanjaro and amazingly the sky was clear enough for us to see the snow on top both early in the morning and in the evening. We understand the top is rarely visible so we were very lucky.
The hotel was somewhat in a time warp (makes the Isle of Wight look positively at the cutting edge) but was friendly and comfortable. We were somewhat overwhelmed by the many international groups of young people noisily celebrating and triumphant after their climb. It really is a feat – on the last day of the ascent you set off soon after midnight in order to be able to make it to the top and back down to the highest camp before dark. The whole thing takes at least a week and is not cheap either. We resisted the temptation to change all our plans and to join in (a temptation more easily resisted by one of us than the other) but did go on a wonderfully informative walk with a local guide though his village and the plantations. We heard lots about the making of banana beer but unfortunately(?) weren’t offered a tasting. We did however buy some freshly picked coffee beans which were roasted especially for us. We have a small stash of emergency supplies (bananas, Snickers bars, tomatoes) in one of our suitcases all of which now have a hint of coffee about them but the aroma is fantastic. The guide took us to a dramatic waterfall where we shared a packed lunch. It was a very steep climb down into the gorge and an even steeper climb back up!
Back in Ngaramtoni Sylvia at last feels that her teaching might be getting somewhere. It’s still hard to persuade pupils that language is flexible – they are used to being given the one correct answer on the board and to copying it down without processing it. Offering choices and being determined that they learn something has taken them out of their comfort zone. However they seemed to love making postcards for display – displays of pupils’ work being unheard of. Next challenge is to string them up – postcards, not pupils – persistent dust means fixing anything to the walls is impossible.
John continues to visit grant recipients and to be given chai (very milky, very sweet tea) as an honoured guest. An early must-have for all Masai households appears to be a thermos flask from which the chai is dispensed at the end of a business review. The small businesses themselves are enjoying varying degrees of success and it’s sometimes hard to know how to help and disappointing that there are so few options available.
While on the subject of tea, John is reminded that his physics teacher, when explaining the effect of pressure on boiling points, claimed it was impossible to make a good cup of tea on top of Mount Everest as the water boils at less than 100C. (Note from Sylvia – don’t anyone dare suggest that John should test this out for himself!) At 5000 feet as we are, the tea seems fine but we notice (well John does) that automatic kettles don’t switch off, presumably because the steam temperature is too low but maybe the frequent power cuts don’t help. Perhaps teachers do know something after all!
We’re moving towards our final week of volunteering. Food remains a dominant concern. Mama Rose’ cuisine has taken on an international flavour following the visit of an American anthropologist who taught her how to make pizza. We now have ‘Italian night’ one a week – last week thick crust pizza with a little tomato sauce and cheese topping with spaghetti – plain, no sauce! This week we had the same pizza but with mashed potatoes! I do believe, however, she makes the best yoghurt in the world, we get a few spoonfuls at breakfast made from the milk from the cow in the stall next to the ‘shower’ -10 metres from udder to mouth! Not many food miles there!
We know we will make it to the end now. We’re aware we have a tremendous lot of processing of the experience to do – that will take some time. For now we are touched that the school have arranged a farewell party for Wednesday and John’s team another one for Friday. Immediate problem is how best to dispose of assets we don’t expect to need on safari. Anyone want to bid for a plastic bucket with lid? More about that (possibly) when we get home!
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